We set out to try a variety of venues for Mexican food. We have explored three diverse options and discovered so many more worthy options that this edition clearly requires a sequel.
A Food Truck Worth a Detour
Our first stop is a food truck which got plenty of publicity just before Covid, Fonda El Costeno, 2015 East Union Street, 206.476.2755, https://el-costeno-
restaurant.business.site/, and it has survived and appears to be thriving in the vibrant neighborhood centered at 23rd and Jackson. (Look for the bright orange food truck about two blocks West of that intersection.) We tried an assortment of tacos and the lingua (beef tongue) burrito. We noticed we were the only ones ordering in English; we assume that is a good sign for authentic Mexican food.
Our order was ready surprisingly quickly and we ate at one of the picnic tables adjacent to the truck. The burrito was generous in size (almost hard to finish) and we were assured by our guest was well done. The three tacos (we deferred to the cashier on which to order (getting pollo, carne azada and carnitas) were all flavorful with a bit of heat, but not too much. We had the impression they held off on the heat for our order; the green or red sauces that can be ordered certainly could add some heat.
We liked everything we sampled and would go back for quick and comparatively reasonably priced Mexican food. We tried to go back to sample additional items and noticed they are not always open when their website says they are. But, when open, they are certainly worth a to-go order.
A Fun New Option in Pioneer Square
Heading back downtown we found a new addition to Pioneer Square: Toco Listo, 119 South Jackson Street, right at the terminus of the Capitol Hill Street Car, part of the Railspur Development on that block (reputedly the former Seattle home of the Great Northern Railway). Toco Listo, which opened May 2, is an upscale and modern establishment. It is larger than it would seem from the street, as it continues on to what was an alley with outdoor dining in back, just outside their full bar in the rear. Overall, everything we sampled was very flavorful and interestingly seasoned. We sampled the pollo asado and the gobernadora tacos. The chicken was very well seasoned with a jalapeño-garlic “crema” and salsa macha, but it was a little dry. The Gobernador contained grilled shrimp with a spicy salsa and cheese. We would order both again. We accompanied the tacos with a cup of the rockfish aguachile, a spicy cup of soup with serrano chiles, cucumber, avocado and lime. The soup was complex, with flavors we could not fully identify, and definitely worth trying, even if a bit expensive compared to the rest of the menu.
Toco Listo has a full bar in the back, including some interesting and often spicy themed drinks. We tried the Mango Congelada (frozen) Margarita which included chunks of mango and a spicy chamoy salted rim. A spoon was a helpful approach to this drink, and we would order it again.
We liked everything we tried at Toco Listo and intend to return (including to try the vegetarian cauliflower taco option). Overall, this is a higher end, somewhat more expensive option in the Mexican food niche, but definitely a place to consider stopping on your way to a game or whenever you are in Pioneer Square.
One of the Best Options at the Ballpark
And, in case you have not made it down to the far left field corner of T-
Mobile Park, make the trip to check out Edgar’s Cantina, T-Mobile Park (fka “no lead is safe-co”), 1250 1st Ave South (inside the ballpark), 206.346.4000, https://edgarscantinaseattle.cafecity
guide.website/. (There is also an Edgar’s Cantina at the club level, near section 212, if you’re seated on that level. We understand it has the same menu.)
If you arrive at the ballpark early, Edgar’s has its own entrance that usually opens 30 minutes before the other gates (and closes when the other gates open). The Cantina itself is a 21 and over only bar, with one of the few full bars available outside the club level. You can watch the game from there and even have a shot at catching a foul ball; so, understandably, it is usually fairly packed by gametime. The bar area has tables to lean on, but no chairs — a disadvantage for some of us (but it does allow them to squeeze in more patrons). The takeout area is not age restricted. And, perhaps because of its fairly obscure location, the lines are usually fairly short for takeout, although then you have to navigate through the center field food and drink court to get back to your seats with your food.
We have tried most of the menu at Edgar’s but our favorites remain the chicken nachos and either the pork or shrimp quesadillas. The nachos come with chicken, pork and steak options for protein, and generous tortilla chips, green onions, salsa, and, of course the queso sauce. The serving size is somewhat smaller than the nachos at the Cantinas at other locations in the ballpark (the ones that can come in a commemorative helmet), but it is priced more reasonably, and does not come in a helmet. One hint from experience: if you order the chicken nachos on the bar side you receive a more generous portion than if you order it to go (at the same price).
The quesadillas are well seasoned with ample cheese and are served to you fresh and quite warm — usually warm enough to last until we can take the food back to our seats. They are generous with the condiments (fresh red and green salsa, pico de gallo, pickled jalapeños and sour cream) if you ask. Another hint: take lots of napkins, the quesadillas tend to get messy with or without the condiments. The tacos are also worth sampling, but we tend to return to the quesadillas. You should certainly make the trip to left field to check them out during the Mariners’ playoff run.
We enjoyed all three of these establishments and plan to return to each for different reasons: Fonda El Costeno for a quick to go order, Toco Listo for a quick spicy drink before a game or to meet up with people after work in Pioneer Square, and Edgar’s for the playoffs.
Dining Out is brought to you by Christopher Howard, now retired from law firm life, but still dining out, together with friends and family who help chose and sample the restaurants. Send comments and suggestions to him at chh@f2t.com or 206.669.5956.
